DISCLAIMER: In no way does the author expect to create a travelog in the quality of Art Seaman, although he is using Art's work for inspiration.
Packing Day 6-16-99Marla and I spent today going over our equipment and supplies. Satisfied that everything was ready to go, we took our cat to my parents for the week, fueled up the Jimmy, and went to bed early.
It has been an exciting few days as my 3x teleconverter arrived for my camera yesterday. It should add an unknown to my photography as I have not yet had to chance to use it. Arriving today was my Seven Foot Knoll, Pt. Fermin mini, and Sea Girt ornament. 7ft Knoll was numbered 62 and Pt. Fermin was 47. My first two digit Harbour Lights! What a way to start a vacation!
Day 1: 6-17-99Leaving the house this morning at 10am, we really have no set schedule or plan. We agreed this was the way to go as to keep the pressure of deadlines off. Traveling North on M-13 to Standish, We opted for the "Sunrise Side" route of travel and exited on US-23. If you want a more direct route to Mackinaw and the UP, the exit for I-75 is also here.
Arriving in Tawas City / East Tawas around 11:38 after stopping for breakfast on the way, we went to our first HL dealer of the trip,"Morning Stars". There were 5 reportable R@R sources there, but we made no purchases.
Continuing North on US-23, we exited at Tawas Beach Road and followed it to the end, arriving at Tawas Point State Park. You do need a Michigan State Park Sticker to enter by car. The cost is $20 for an annual or $4 for a daily. Drive out to the day use area and you will see Tawas Point Lighthouse. You can walk right up to the lighthouse. U.S.C.G. Auxilliary members open the tower for tours most weekends during the summer, but we were there on a Thursday, so no climb for us this trip. We did climb the Tawas Point tower last year however. I took numerous photographs, we looked around a bit, then were on our way.
Back out to US-23 and continuing North, we were on our way to Sturgeon Point Lighthouse. Turning onto Lakeshore Dr about 2.9 miles north of Harrisville, go another mile an turn right on Point Road. This will take you to the entrance of the park, about .8 miles up the road. Turn left into the parking area and walk the short distance to the lighthouse. The gift shop and museum are open daily Memorial Day through September, and weekends in October. It is still an active aid to navigation, so the tower is not open to the public. Donations are requested, but not required to enter the keepers house. On display in the museum is the 190MM lens recently removed from the White Shoals Light, and many other interesting pieces of lighthouse memoribilia. Also on site is the Old Bailey Schoolhouse which served from 1907 to 1941. We arrived at 1:24, and after taking our photo's and touring the gift shop/museum, we were back on the road.
Next up was the Alpena Light. Following US-23 north into downtown Alpena, turn right onto 1st Avenue one block north of where US-23 makes a 90 degree bend to the west. From there, many different viewing locations present themselves. I found the best to be from the Public Marina, but there are other viewing locations across the Thunder Bay River. The light is not accessable to the public.
Back on the road, we bypassed the Presque Isle and 40 Mile Point lights for later in our trip. We arrived at Cheboygan State Park around 4:15 and set up camp. This was a very peaceful and rustic place to camp. There were never more than 15 camps set up in the park and it was very quiet with a lot of wildlife present. We were able to view deer, wild turkey, waterfowl, and the ever present squirrels and chipmunks.
For the day, 215 miles traveled, three lighthouses viewed, and one Harbour Light dealer visited. All of the lighthouses viewed today looked to be in great shape and well taken care of.
Day 2: 6-18-99We awoke this morning to the sound of a distant fog signal, most likely Poe Reef. After a hearty breakfast whipped up on the Coleman Stove, we traveled to Cheboygan.
Continuing up US-23 a few miles from the State Park and into the City of Cheboygan, cross the drawbridge over the Cheboygan River. From there you can see the Front Range Lighthouse and down the river, the Crib Light. Over the bridge, turn on right on Water St. and go about a block. The Cheboygan River Front Range Light will be on the right. The building is in use by the government and not open to the public. The light is not in service, but is used as a daymark.
Continue North on Water St. until it turns left onto First. Go two blocks to Huron and turn right. Follow Huron to Gordon Turner Park. From there you can walk to the Cheboygan Crib Light and get views of the Poe Reef and 14 Foot Shoals lights. We took photos of them all and took the short walk to the Crib Light and out to the end of the breakwater. We were disappointed the the U.S.C.G. Icebreaker Mackinaw was not in port.
Heading back downtown, we stopped at "Shanty Boy Gifts" and found 10 reportable lights for Retired @ Retail. They also had Hudson-Athens and Esopus Meadows on display. Both look great get a good first impression from me. The most Harbour Lights I have seen on display in one place at one time were here.
Back to US-23 and heading north, we went up to Mackinaw City for some shopping and a visit to Old Mackinaw Point. We arrived downtown around 1:25 and stopped at three HL dealers, along with many other tourist stops. Of the three Harbour Light dealers, "O'Brians" was a GLOW only dealer. I gave them Bob McKeon's name and was on my way
. 12 retired pieces were found for R@R at the "Monadnock Gift Shop" & "Turtle Bay".
Follow US-23 to the Downtown Mackinaw City Exit. Follow that road all the way to Old Mackinaw Point Lighthouse. The entire area around the lighthouse is a public park with a great view of the Mackinac Bridge. I was able, with some work, to get many great shots of the lighthouse. With the large number of people up there, it takes some patience to get shots with no people in them, but it can be done. The lighthouse is not open to the public and is no longer an active aid to navigation. The grounds here are beautiful and well kept.
From the lighthouse, you can follow the signs to I-75 north, across the bridge. We did and went into St. Ignace for dinner and another HL dealer. We had dinner around 4:00 then stopped at "Harrington's". They had 8 retired pieces for Retired @ Retail. Still no purchases for me though. No incredible finds yet, but I am looking. When you almost have them all, there is not much left to buy
.
Back to the campground for the night and a little rest from the day's activities. We got back at 6:00 after traveling 83 miles, visiting 3 lighthouses, seeing 2 more in the distance, and 5 Harbour Lights dealers.
Day 3: 6-19-99Keeping up with our tradition thus far of getting up late and leaving the campground after noon, we left for 40 Mile Point Lighthouse around 1:00. The lighthouse is located off US-23, two miles north of P.H. Hoeft State Park, which is just north of Rogers City. Do not take 40 Mile Point Road! There will be a sign that reads 40 Mile Point Lighthouse Park just before the drive leading to the lighthouse, as well as signs at the gate. Once inside, you will find the lighthouse to the left and the fog signal building to the right. Also on site is the pilothouse to the laker Calcite. Volunteers have been restoring this piece, but have a long way to go. The lighthouse and grounds look good and are well maintained. The park manager lives in the lighthouse and it is not open for tours. The fog signal building has been converted into a pavillion for parties or gatherings, and is available for public use. Check with the park manager for availability. It was at this point we were wishing that we had packed a lunch to eat in the view of the lighthouse. It would have made for a very peaceful setting.
Leaving 40 Mile Point and heading back north on US-23, there are several senic overlooks and public parks along the route to Mackinaw City. We stopped at a few and found that one overlook, three miles south of Cheboygan State Park, provides a good view of Poe Reef. Probably the best view of the lighthouse without the services of a boat or plane. We were setting up for photos when another couple came over to talk to us. They were from Burton, MI and were on their way home from lighthousing the Upper Peninsula. We exchanged lighthouse stories and compaired camera equipment. They have photographed most every light in Michigan and hoped to get the rest soon. Some of the road conditions in the U.P. had prevented them from getting back to a few lights. I am ashamed that I never got their names or found out if they were Harbour Light collectors.
Back at the capmground by 4:00, that was pretty much the end of our day. Time for an evening of setting around the campfire. I did make a few phone calls to flying services however. Great Lakes Air out of St. Ignace charges $30. per person, with a minimum of two fares, for a 15-20 minute flight out around Mackinaw City, the island, and the bridge, then back to St. Ignace. Hoffman Air Service out of Cheboygan had lighthousing packages you could create. They charged $15 per light for 14 Foot Shoals, Poe, Old Mackinaw Point, Round Island, Bois Blanc Island, St. Helena Island, and Cheboygan Crib. For an additional charge you could view either White Shoals to the west, or Spectacle Reef to the east. All this of course is dependant on the tempramental Straits weather. We are undecided if we will take a plane tour or not.
Day three brought 1 new light, 1 previously viewed light, and lots of relaxaion. 73 miles traveled today.
Day 4: 6-20-99We awoke when we awoke. No alarm clocks this trip. The weather was sunny for the fourth consecutive day and we decided to take the hike to the Old Cheboygan Light lighthoue ruins. Be sure to pick up a trail map at the ranger station or any of the trail heads. There are many miles of hiking trails, but the shortest route to the ruins is about 1.3 miles. Follow the Red Trail to the Blue Trail. There you can either stay on the trail, or take the road leading to the 14 Foot Shoals Cabin. Follow the signs from there to the ruins. It took us about 50 minutes to make the hike. Once at the ruins you will find the foundation of the old light. The walls still stand about 3 feet high and are of red brick and stone. Many trees and plants are growing up through the center, making it an errie, somewhat sad sight.
A word about the trails. It can get quite boggy in some places, so be prepared for muddy or wet feet. For the most part though, the trail is easy walking. Bug spray is essential! Mosquitos rule this part of the forest and will make you pay. Bring along a picnic lunch too. Once out on the Lake Huron shoreline just past the ruins, the view is spectacular. In the distance you can see the Mackinac Bridge. 14 Foot Shoals is right in front of you. Freighters are passing by behind the lighthouse, and Poe Reef is visible to the south. This vantage point is the closest view from land of 14 Foot Shoals. I was able to get some good shots of lake freighters passing behing the lighthouse.
Earlier I mentioned cabins. There are three state owned cabins for rent here. For $25 per night, you can stay in a rustic cabin with a view of the lighthouse. There is room for up to eight people. Vault toilets are provided along with well drawn water. Shower facilities ae in the campground itself.
Later this evening, we drove back to the Cheboygan waterfront to watch the sun set. The Mackinaw was still not in port. Getting back to the campground, we called our fathers and wished them both a Happy Father's Day. It was a little sad being away from them, but they understood. We were lighthousing.
No new lighthouses today, just ruins of a lighthouse past......
Day 5: 6-21-99Mackinac Island day. The perfect weather continues as we head out for the island. We followed the same US-23 path we have became so aquainted with during this trip, following it into downtown Mackinaw City. You will pass many different ferry companies along the way. IMHO, none are any better than another. I have used all three in the past with no problems. For this trip, we chose Star Line. $13.50 per adult round trip for the 18 minute ride each way. Ferrys run on a half hour schedule and more often than that during peak times. The last ferry is at 9:00pm and the first at 8:00am. If you are interested in taking pictures of the Round Island Lighthouse, you need to sit on the Starboard (right) side for the ride there and the Port (left) side for the ride back. You will get pretty close to the lighthouse on the ferry. There are also many other picturesque vantage points all over the elevated island. It was amazing how reliant I had become on my tripod for taking pictures. Unable to use it on the ferry and bouncing every which way while trying to snap photos, the quality should be interesting.
Once on the island. we became "fudgies" as the locals call them, and did the tourist things. We visited the fort, (prepare yourself for that long, steep climb up the side of the hill to reach the enterence of the fort) the butterfly house, (over 600 flying around) and we of course bought fudge. Good scenic pictures of the island and of Round Island can be had from the fort. Admission to the fort is $7.95 per adult. This admission also gets you into 4 other historic sites on the island. For those of you wishing to visit the famous Grand Hotel while on the island, there is a fee just to walk onto the grounds. We didn't do that this trip, but if memory serves me, the fee is around $5. Also while on the island we visited one of the two Harbour Light dealers. I forgot my list of dealers and we couldn't find the second dealer (oops!). Nine sources for Retired @ Retail were found at the "Carriage Lantern Shop". Almost anything can be rented on the island. Bicycles, hourses, jet skis, you name it, they got it. As with everything on the island though, it is a bit pricey.
After a long day on the island, we arrived back in Cheboygan around 6:00. I still hadn't taken any pictures on the Cheboygan River Rear Range Light, so I stopped and snapped some off. It was fairly difficult due to power lines in the area to get a clear shot. Marla and I were getting a little cranky around this time. We were tired and went back to the campground to retire for the evening.
For the day, 45 miles traveled, 1 new lighthouse visited, and some fudge for dinner.
Day 6: 6-22-99No lighthousing planned for today. A final day for us just to sit around, take an afternoon nap (what a luxury!) and do some reading. On the way home tomorrow, we plan on stopping at New & Old Presque Isle lighthouses. So far on this trip the weather has been perfect. Our fingers are crossed for one day more.
We decided around 5:30 to take a drive one last time into Cheboygan. Unfortunately we will not see the Mackinaw this trip, as it is still out of port. Nosing around at the marina next to the U.S.C.G. Station, we found what appears to be three retired 44' Motor Life Boats. They looked pretty well worn and were sitting up on cradles. They could be there for refurb., but my guess is they have been replaced with the new 47' Motor Lifeboat like Station Tawas City has just received. The home ports noted on the hulls were: St. Ignace, Portage, and Michigan City.
We have also decided not to take any aerial tours this trip. I think we are going save our money and wait until the Great Lakes Lighthouse Festival in October and do some flyovers then.
The trip is winding down. We head home tomorrow.
Day 7: 6-23-99Time to pack up and start the drive home. It had to happen! Just as we were finishing breakfast, the skies opened up and drenched everything. There is nothing like packing up a wet tent and camping gear. The rain lasted about a half hour, then quit. The sun was out an hour later.
We headed out following US-23 south toward Presque Isle. You need to turn east onto County Road 638. The area is well marked for the lighthouse park. The road will split, so follow the signs and stay on 638 to the end. Turn left on CR405. You will pass a marina and come to the gate for Old Presque Isle. At that gate is the Old Front Range Light. The road back in is very narrow and cozy. We parked in the lot, then went exploring. In the keepers quarters at OPI is a small museum feturing many artifacts. It is here where you also pay $2 to climb the tower. We asked the woman behind the desk about the ghost light. She stated it must be a whale oil lamp because the light flickers and that she has seen it twice. Her granddaughter who was also there stated she saw it as well. Also related to us was a story of the time they returned to the lighthouse to find the beds messed up when no one had been there. You be the judge, but I believe them. We climbed the tower, took many photos, then went on down the road.
Back out to the road and one mile to New Presque Isle. How impressive! Driving down the narrow tree lined road, the lighthouse comes into veiw. Very beautiful. Marla stood back and watched me run around snapping photographs from different angles, just shaking her head. We went into the gift shop, paid our $2 and climbed the tower. Now this was a good workout! As the tallest light structure on the Great Lakes, that spiral staircase had a lot of steps. The view from the top was worth every step. Breathtaking! The third order lens is still in place and beautiful. We spent a lot of time up there dreaming of how it would have been to be a lightkeeper here. The volunteers at both NPI and OPI were very knowledgeable and helpful. This lighthouse park is a must visit for anyone traveling this way.
We eventually left for home and finally arrived there at 7pm. A long day and a long trip, but worth every minute. On this trip we traveled over 628 miles, took over 200 photographs, and visited 14 lighthouses or lighthouse remains. We also found many retired Harbour Lights and reported them all to Rick. We never did buy any Harbour Lights on the Trip.
Day 8: 6-24-99Logged on-line and went to the forums to catch up on the news. It took about 3 hours to read through everything, about the time it took to assimilate this information and type it into a travelog.
The pictures from my trip should be posted soon and I will link them in when they are ready.
If you have made it this far, thank you for taking the time to read through our travelog. I hope you have enjoyed what you read. From Marla and I, Thank You!!!
The photographs from this trip can be viewed by clicking on:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=45392&Auth=false [This message has been edited by Todd Shorkey (edited 07-02-99).]
