In another thread I requested some help in planning this trip -- and received plenty:
Oregon & Washington Lights: The Plan

Here we go again...

Day 1

Left home at 6:30 a.m. to catch an 8:55 flight out of Memphis. Arrived Sea-Tac airport at 11:37. Departed Sea-Tac around 12:20. Took I-5 south past Eugene, OR. Made a stop for some fast food that turned out to be neither. The weather was great: about 60 degrees F. and mostly sunny. I-5 is not much to speak of. Lots of buttes rising out of the grasslands, and many, many sheep. No insomniacs here. Got off Exit 162 onto Oregon Route 38. Saw an interesting sign going into a small town:



I guess they figure they can't afford to lose any more residents.

Route 38 is a fairly scenic drive, even breathtaking in spots. For most of its length it follows the Umpqua River, and is lined with moss-covered trees. Very nice when the sunlight filters through. Along the way I saw a herd of elk just a few hundred yards off the highway. Stopped for a quick photo , then back on my way. At Reedsport I turned south on U.S. 101. From a wayside overlook there I could see the Umpqua Lighthouse. Plan to go back tomorrow for close-ups, so after a couple of shots from the overlook I was back on my way.

I stopped for the night in Coos Bay. Arrived just at 7:00 p.m. -- just in time for the AOL chat. Coincidence? NOT. I picked Coos Bay because it has a local AOL access number (the closest such number to Cape Blanco, my southernmost destination on this journey). I didn't want to pay toll charges to check into these fora (unless of course, there was no other option .)

Did the AOL chat, then went to eat at the Blue Heron Bistro. Had the chowder and the Cajun shrimp fettuccini. Very good. Thanks for the tip, Myron.

Phrase of the day: Sheep and buttes

Tomorrow: serious lighthousing.

-Art
[This message has been edited by Art (edited 05-06-99).]

Day 2.

Departed Coos Bay at 5:50 a.m. on U.S. 101 South. Still dark. Arrived at Bullard's Beach at 6:19 (405.1 miles logged since yesterday) to catch Coquille River LH at sunrise. Bullard's Beach is not your typical beach. At the entrance are twisted, gnarly, moss-covered pine trees that give me inspiration for bonsai (another of my expensive, time-consuming interests). These give way to scrub Mugo pines and tidal pools. The lighthouse itself sits on a craggy rock at the end of the beach. Took photos up close, then got back on 101 and drove to Bandon for some across-the-river shots. Best photo place may be from River Road in Bandon, especially from the Lighthouse Bed & Breakfast. I didn't take such a photo myself because a car was parked in the way. There are these prickly plants with brilliant yellow flowers everywhere. Without these, the setting would be very bland indeed. Dead trees everywhere. Departed Bandon at 7:15

Back on 101 South, it appears to be clear what this area's economy is made of: timber, cranberries, myrtlewood crafts, blueberries and sheep. Arrived 8:00 at Cape Blanco, the westernmost point in the contiguous 48 states. 441.8 miles logged. The light is about 5 miles off of 101 and you can drive within a few hundred yard of it. The gates were closed when I arrived. Very windy, and about 40 degrees F. Trying to take a photo with a 200mm lens was a chore because of the wind, even with ASA800 film and fast shutter. Tripod was no help in this wind, either. Hiked down to the beach north of the light for photos. Good view of the light from there for a photo op. Tons of tree-sized driftwood at the high water mark. Beach itself is surreal with the early sun filtering through the heavy mist, striking huge rocks protruding through the surf. It's certainly no wonder why a lighthouse was needed here . Departed 8:45 (after an exhilarating climb back up the head from the beach!) and worked my way back up 101 northbound.

I learned what the road sign "Sunken Grade" means in Oregon: That part of the mountain on which the road had been constructed ain't there no more. Neither is the road, of course.

Gas is really expensive here: $1.45 for regular, 1.54 for Plus, 1.64 for Super. That's about 40% higher than what I'm used to paying at home.

Arrived at 10:00 at Cape Arago State Park. Could not see the lighthouse from there, but a great view otherwise. Could hear sea lions "barking", but even with a 200mm lens I could just barely see them. Nature has equipped them well to be heard above the roaring surf. Departed around 10:15. On the way back down from the head you can see Cape Arago Light. Stopped to take some photos. The area was marshy. No, it was a muddy mess. 500.4 miles logged. Tried to get a closer look at Arago, but the Coast Guard station gates were locked. Later, I found that my aperture had moved from the auto setting to 22. I hope the Arago photos come out OK. [NOTE: The photos turned out far too dark -- not worth posting]

Back at Coos Bay, I saw a guy out walking his Reticulated Python. It was a nice day for it. The wind died down, and it was about 70 degrees F. now.

Whoever this Coo was, he was sure a popular guy 'round these parts. Coos Bay (the bay), Coos Forest, Coos County, Coos Bay (the town), Coos River. And then there are the derivations: Siltcoos, for example. Departed Coos Bay around 11:00.

Arrived Umpqua River Lighthouse at 11:17. 531.5 miles logged. Couldn't gain access (Coasty wouldn't let me in -- he didn't seem to care that I know Sean.) The light is right next to the street, so I think I got some very good photos anyway. Very pretty lighthouse, and well maintained. Departed 11:40.

Grabbed some Golden Arches for lunch on the road (that's the worst part of lighthousing -- fast food.) Stopped at Lighthouse Gallery & Gifts. No HLs, but every other lighthouse line under the sun. Bought a tee shirt for my wife and some trinkets for the kids. Also bought the "Umbrella Guides" lighthouse books for Oregon and Washington. Excellent books. Highly recommended.

Arrived at Heceta Head at 1:15 p.m. 570 miles logged. A good place for photos is just north of the Sealion Cave. There's a small area there to pull off the road. There is a larger viewpoint a bit north of that. Probably safer to stop there. There is a $3.00 day use fee for Heceta Head. There's a short hike up to the lighthouse that will give you your day's exercise. Great place for photos. Be sure to take the path to the top of the head to shoot down at the lighthouse. Very nice perspective, if a bit cliché. No tours given today. Departed 2:15.

Arrived at Yaquina Bay Lighthouse at 3:16. 612.1 miles logged. There was hardly any wind at all now. Beautiful day. Clear, near 75 degrees F. Finally, I got to go inside a lighthouse on this trip. All the others had been closed. I really wanted to go up to the lantern for the view, but the ladder was closed off. Quaint light. Nice restoration. You can see a lightship's Fresnel lens inside. Departed 3:50 p.m. Back on U.S.101, where I had been all day.

Arrived at Yaquina Head gate at 4:02. Everything (lighthouse, gift shop, interpretive center) closes at 4:00. Typical of one of my lighthousing excursions. 617.2 miles logged. $5.00 day use fee. Good photo vantage from Otter Creek Viewpoint. This is also a beautiful lighthouse in a lovely location . I loved this one. Here's a detail of one of the windows .

Outside the tower, facing seaward, is a monument that reads,



Departed Yaquina Head at 4:22.

Back on 101 again, I crossed the 45th parallel (halfway to Santa from the equator) at 5:13. It was becoming apparent that I would be racing the sun before day's end. Again, typical.

Arrived at Tillamook (the town, about 45 miles from the lighthouse of the same name) at 6:00. 682 miles logged. Lots of cows. Lots of cow smell. Turn left just north of Route 6 onto the 3 Capes Scenic Route. Almost hit 2 mule deer on the way. Arrived at Cape Meares at 6:25 (692 miles.) The sun was sinking low, and the reflection of the sun off the water and into the Fresnel lens and red sector glass makes for a nice picture. I had lots of time to contemplate it, too, as it takes about 5 minutes to walk from the parking lot to the lighthouse, and the lantern is visible for the entire walk. The light is still a day mark, but the AtoN work is now done by a soulless gizmo called (as I would learn the next day) VEGA . Kinda looks like Sputnik atop an uninspired rectangular block structure. Departed 6:45. The race is on.

Arrived at my last stop of the evening, Ecola Park, at 7:40 to photograph Tillamook Rock Lighthouse in the setting sun. Just in time. Sunset is officially 7:55 this day! Set up the tripod and squeezed off a couple of hasty shots before the sun vanished into the Pacific. The lighthouse is really too far to photograph from this point, but I couldn't find a better place. Enjoyed being there all the same. A beautiful sunset to cap off a glorious day.

Arrived at the Four Winds Motel in Seaside, Oregon (Beachfront at 9th Ave., 1-800-818-9524, http://www.fourwindsmotel.com ) at 8:45 p.m. (760.3 miles logged in two days) to spend the night. From my room (#206), you can see Tillamook Lighthouse off to the left, just beyond Tillamook Head. No AOL in the area, so this travelog will not be posted until the following day.

This has been an exhausting day. Pre-dawn to post-dusk, straining to read road signs and maps while driving winding mountain roads, speed limits fluctuating wildly between 25 and 60 mph. I'd recommend that you take two days -- at least one and a half -- to do this trip.

Thank you to all who helped me plan for this trip -- I feel I was really well prepared.

Phrase of the day: Dead trees.

Reporting to you with a 24-hour lag time from Tacoma WA,

-Art [I'm a lumberjack and I'm O.K....]


Day 3.

Arose at dawn to photograph Tilly from the hotel window. At 7:00 I took a ride to find a better vantage for photos. Turned west on every intersection along 101 looking for a better way. Turned down some logging roads, some quarry roads, some private drives, and every side street I found. Returned to Ecola Park. Three elk crossed the road casually only about 100 feet in front of my car. Despite the low light, I took their picture (possible due to ASA 800 film.) I turned right just past the booth (where they charge you the day use fee of $3.00 -- bring exact change to feed the machine if the attendant is not there.) Followed signs for Indian Beach. This takes you out to the south side of Indian Point near Tillamook Head . Arrived at 7:40. At that point there is the head of a trail that I did not take -- no time -- but looks very promising for a good shot at Tillamook Rock Lighthouse. It's a six-mile hike, so plan a few hours in the park if you attempt this. Also, let us all know how you make out!

Returned to check out of the hotel (office does not open until 9:00 a.m.). Took a few more shots of Tilly (now nicely illuminated from the east) from the beach in front of the hotel. Departed at 9:03 headed north on (what else?) U.S.101.

Arrived at the Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria (1792 Marine Drive, 503/325-2323) at 9:35 (803.5 miles logged). Took photos of the lightship Columbia, hopped back in the car and left. Changed my mind after about mile, and went back to take in the museum. Very glad I did. Well worth the hour and the $5.00. The nominal fee gets you aboard the lightship as well. Click here to see a close-up of Lightship Columbia's lantern . Departed 10:35.

The bridge from Astoria, OR to Ilwaco, WA is impressive. Not good if you are afraid of heights or long bridges! After the bridge, turn left onto 101 and then follow WA Route 100 to North Head Lighthouse Road. Turn right and follow to the parking lot at the end. Arrived at 11:06, 823.9 miles.

North Head is a quick walk from the parking lot. Very photogenic also. Lovely tower & support buildings. Climb the hill above the light for the best photos. Watch the snakes. Tower was closed for servicing by USCG. Had a nice chat with one of the AtN boys. His team is responsible for maintenance of Cape Meares (his personal favorite) Destruction Island and Cape Flattery, in addition to North Head. Departed 11:45.

Backtrack to WA 100 and turn right. Follow this to Cape Disappointment Lighthouse parking lot. Arrived 11:56, 826.0 miles. Rigorous walk up to the lighthouse. Really windy up there. Took some good close-ups. Where the trail branched, I went toward the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center to see if I could get a better shot from there. Great look at the mouth of the Columbia River from there. Not such a great shot of the lighthouse though. From there I did notice a road running along the north jetty. Back in the car, I set out to find the road. Turned west off of WA100 into the campground. Just past the campground is a parking lot (on the left) that is a great spot for photographing Cape Disappointment. Better, in my opinion, than going all the way up to the light itself.

It was there that I learned the origin of the names "Cape Disappointment" and "Ilwaco." I was replacing the roll of film in my camera absentmindedly. I opened the camera and in one ohnosecond I realized that I had not rewound the film. There it was, in bright sunlight: ASA800 film, fully exposed. I slammed the cover shut reflexively, but of course it was too late. With ASA800 film especially, a single photon can kill 10,000 rolls. All of my photos for the day -- Tilly, LS Columbia, North Head, Cape Disappointment, elk, Columbia River -- all gone. Disappointed at Cape Disappointment, one ill wacko at Ilwaco.

What to do? Re-shoot Cape Disappointment from the jetty (no way I was going to climb the trail again). Leave at 12:51. Go back and re-shoot North Head, too. Arrived at 12:55, departed 1:10 (already knew the best places to shoot from.) LS Columbia, elk: gone. Fortunately, my sunset pictures of Tilly were on another roll. Lost the morning shots for good though. 829.2 miles logged. Headed back onto U.S.101. [POST-TRIP NOTE: I was pleasantly surprised to find that I had actually only lost about 1/4 of the photos from this roll]

Arrived South Bend at 2:13, 873.2 miles. Turned onto Route 105. Could have stayed on 101, but this proved to be a good choice of roads. Good road condition, low traffic, few towns, long straight sections and ample opportunity for passing. Good thing. I had been stuck behind School Bus #22 for about 20 miles on 101.

Got off at South Bend for gas after passing Bus #22. There was a series of signs leading into town as the speed limit dropped from 60 to 25 mph:



They mean it. The town is merely a wide spot in the road, but in 5 miles or so I saw 5 patrol cars!

When I got back on the road I found myself again stuck behind good ol' Bus #22, and unable to pass until Route 105.

Followed 105 into Westport, where it turns into Montessano Road. For Gray's Harbor Lighthouse, follow the signs for "Westport Light State Park." Turn left onto W. Ocean Ave. Look for the public lighthouse viewing platform on the right side of the road. Don't blink! Most people's decks are larger than the platform. It is a good shot from there though. Arrived 2:55. There is a trail just west of the platform that looks promising for photos, but the light is completely obscured by trees. Don't bother. Instead, drive all the way out to the beach on W. Ocean. From the parking lot there you can get another good shot of the lighthouse. Departed 3:20 for Tacoma. Arrived at the Sheraton 5:55 p.m (slowed greatly by construction just south of Aberdeen on 105), having logged 1013.2 miles so far. If you want to connect between Gray's Harbor and Olympia, Tacoma or Seattle, Route 12 to Route 8 to Route 101 to I-5 is a great way to go. Four lanes minimum, 60 mph speed limit the whole way. Most welcome after 2 days of U.S. 101!

I will spend the next few days at "work" in Tacoma. The lighthouses will continue to amass on Monday, I hope.

Word of the day: oysters.

Reporting live from lovely downtown Tacoma, where I cannot connect any faster than 20kbps,

-Art [Lord, I was born a ramblin' man]

[This message has been edited by Art (edited 05-08-99).]

Excellent Adventure, Art! Looking forward to the continuing story.



Lighthouse Gallery & Gifts was located in Reedsport and operated as "Umpqua River Drugs". I haven't been there since 1997, but the Gift store is now located VERY close to the Umpqua River Lighthouse. They do carry Harbour Lights; I have an auto ship with them, so I know that.

When I visited the store in 1997, I saw all these great HLs displayed with low-low numbers. I started picking them up and putting them on the checkout table. That's when the owner informed me those were his PERSONAL collection. His store receives #19-#26. However, while talking to him, it turned out he had a vacancy on the list; someone had just called in to say they didn't want #26 anymore. I hope I didn't seem over-anxious as I casually said HEY! ME! I'LL TAKE IT! WHERE DO I SIGN UP??


John

Your trip brings back some wonderful memories. Ecola has some beautiful views. The last couple of times in that area the fog was in, and we missed a lot. It was still beautiful to see the coast shrouded in fog - very different from the fog in the midwest.

Kathy

John,

Loved to hear of your personal success story with Umpqua.

I knew of Umpqua Drug, but but missed it. I was at another location North of Umpqua Drug, same owners. No HLs at the second store except (as I was told when I inquired) their personal retired pieces, and those were not on display. It was too late in the day to head back south.

Btw John, when I was in the Maritime Museum in Astoria, the volunteer at the desk was reading Lighthouse Digest. She had it open to the page with your Tybee & fireworks photo. Congratulations! I told her I knew the photographer and implored her to check out this web site.

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-Art

Hi Art, ... Just got done reading your travel-log. It sounds like you had an incredible journey. I envy you! Keep the info coming...

Bob

Excellent travelog Art!

I really enjoy reading the adventures and look forward to the next. Thank you for sharing your experiences and taking the time to type the logs.

-Todd

It's news to me Art. Could be one shot by someone else. There were at least a dozen shooting from within 10 yards of one another.

John

John,

Have you seen the Lighthouse Digest? I didn't read the article or the credits, but that photo shure did look like yours!

In any case, the web site got a free plug.

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-Art

Excellent travel journal Art. I envy your wonderful adventure and hope I'll be able to duplicate it in the future.

Great information, enjoy your trip!

Art,Terrific travelogue!Living in the area it is fascinating to get an Eastener's viewpoint.How did you like the "sunken grade" drive to Cape Meares?The prickly plants with the yellow blossoms are "Scotch Broom",beautiful but a bane to farmers & wildlife.You must have passed my house 4x to &from the Maritime Mus.in Astoria.Live in the condo over the Columbia Riv.& view THE BRIDGE & the light from Cape D.As you have discovered you're too early for Oregon!Most of the lighthouse sites are manned by volunteers,usual hours 10-4 dur ing springtime.Glad the weather is cooperating!Looking forward to the next installment.Amazing stamina!

'

JoAnn,

The "sunken grade" road up to Cape Meares? What road? I didn't encounter any road!

The weather has been beautiful indeed. Some serious clouds now gathering over Puget Sound though -- I didn't expect it to be this nice at all, much less expect it to last forever. I am very grateful for the five gorgeous days I've had here so far.

Day 5.667

Tonight I had some free time, so I decided to visit a few more lighthouses before dusk. I departed downtown Tacoma at 4:00 with 1021.2 miles on the odometer. I took Pacific Ave. NW to Ruston Way along the waterfront. I arrived at the Point Defiance ferry terminal at 4:15 (1026.9 miles.)I had no idea what the ferry schedule was like, but a local I had met earlier told me they depart about every 45 minutes. I waited in line at the ticket booth until the gates opened at 4:35. I was the 13th car in line. 13th? Had to be, with my luck. Fare was $8.50 for car with driver. Additional passengers are $2.40, with discounts for kids and Ancient Mariners. The fee is good for the round-trip. I picked up a schedule aboard the ferry, and got this address for all Puget Sound ferry schedules from it:

http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/ . You can also call (in WA only): 1-888-808-7977 or 1-800-84-FERRY.

The ferry departed at 4:50 p.m. (scheduled for 4:45 departure.) Great shot of Mt. Rainier from the ferry. Arrived at Tahlequah on Vashon Island at 5:04.

Directions to Point Robinson Lighthouse: Turn left off of the ferry. Take Vashon Highway north for 5.7 miles and turn right on Quartermaster Dr. Follow another 1.8 miles and turn right on Dockton Rd. Follow Docton for 0.3 miles and bear left onto Robinson Point Rd. Be careful here: this road has two names, two signs. The other is Luana Beach Road. Just bear left and you'll be OK. 1.6 miles later you'll come to a "T" in the road. Turn right. 0.2 miles later you'll be in the parking lot for Point Robinson Lighthouse. I arrived at 5:30 (1037.9 miles logged.)

Point Robinson Light is a small harbor light, only 38' tall with a focal plane probably only about 3 or 4' higher than that. It's a nice little light in a quiet place (even on a lovely springtime Saturday afternoon.) Since it was a fairly clear day today, I was able to photograph it with majestic Mount Rainier in the background. As they say here on nice days, "The mountain is out today."

While at Point Robinson I took a photo of the fog signal equipment for Tim and all the other FS fans out there.

My next plan was to head for a couple of Seattle area lights back on the mainland. I headed north back on Vashon Highway to the northern ferry terminal. They don't charge to leave the island, so it didn't matter which ferry I left on. When I arrived at the terminal (6:10, 1050.1 miles,) I got a bad feeling. The line was quite long. Seems all the residents of Vashon Island head to Seattle by way of this ferry for Saturday night dining and whatever. At 6:32 the line started moving. At 6:35 it stopped again. The ferry was full, and I wasn't on it. Just my luck.

Waiting for the next ferry, I got out of the car to see if I could see Alki Point LH from across Puget Sound. I couldn't. It was obscured by dock equipment. I noticed a posting on the terminal door: The 100-car capacity ferry is in for maintenance. It has been substituted by a 75-car ferry from April 12 - April 30. I counted the cars. I was now #14 in line. If the 100-car ferry was in use, I would have been on it! Instead, I wasted 50 minutes of valuable daylight gridlocked in place on the ferry on-ramp. I'd be racing the sun again. Good thing I brought along some lighthouse guidebooks to read.

The next ferry (with me aboard) departed Vashon Terminal at 7:29, and arrived at 7:43 at the Fauntleroy Terminal (W. Seattle.)

Turning left off the boat, I bore left everywhere I could to keep me near the beach. I knew I would eventually come upon Alki Point Lighthouse with that strategy. I arrived at the light at 7:57 (1054.7 miles.) The grounds are closed to the public this time of year (and this time of evening, in any case), so you must find beach access (good luck -- I went through an abandoned lot and down some decrepit wooden stairs to get there.) High tide was at 7:19 this evening. I arrived just 38 minutes after high tide, so there was no beach there. Sunset was also officially at 7:59, just two minutes after my arrival. Taken together, his impeccable timing finds our hero scrambling over huge, wet, mossy rocks at dusk to get a photo of Alki Point Light before the light fades, then back again in virtual darkness. Kids, do not try this on your own! If you want to see Alki Point that badly, come during the weekend from May through September, from 12:00 to 4:00 p.m. when the grounds are open to visitors. If you can't make it then, consider skipping this one altogether. It might be better at low tide with plenty of daylight, but the hassle I endured wasn't worth it. Did I mention the rabid dogs?

I had planned on going to see West Point Light this evening also, but I spent my West Point time allotment waiting in line at the ferry terminal. Nothing to do now but head back to Tacoma (via I-5 -- no more ferries today, thank you.) In retrospect, I probably should have taken the passenger-only ferry to Seattle. That one appears to go right past Alki Point Lighthouse on its way to Seattle. If it passes close enough, it might be the best place to photograph this one from. I considered doing this when I realized I missed the other ferry, but I didn't think I'd make a lot of friends if I left the rental car where it was, gridlocked as it was in the ferry boarding lane. Driving out wasn't an option at that time.

On the way home I noticed a mini Statue of Liberty replica (about 4' tall) facing Puget Sound from the Alki waterfront between 60th and 61st Streets. Is this a sign? Should HL do a Statue of Liberty mini? I know, I know. Paul already has a prototype.

Well, that's it for Day 5.667. Tune in again tomorrow. Thanks for traveling along. TTFN

Word of the day: timing.

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-Art

[This message has been edited by Art (edited 05-07-99).]

Day 6.4583

Rained this morning, and looked like it would all day. After taking care of business, I departed 11:05 from downtown Tacoma (rain poncho and waterproof camera in tow) for the first stop: West Point Lighthouse (the one I missed last night) near downtown Seattle. Headed North on I-5, got off on Exit 166 (at around 11:40), Olive Way/ Denny Way. Followed Denny Way (west) to Western Ave. (NW). Followed Elliot Ave. W. to W. Emerson past the Fisherman's Terminal toward Fort Lawson and Discovery Park. Turned right onto Gilman Ave. W., then took W. Government Way to Discovery Park. In reality I took a detour before going into the park -- I couldn't resist driving up into some of the lovely area neighborhoods (Magnolia Bluff) overlooking the Sound. Reminiscent in some ways of San Francisco. Because of this, I didn't reach the park's north parking lot until 12:30. I could have been there perhaps 25 minutes earlier. Signs are not very good. You'll do best to follow the signs for The Daybreak Star Indian Cultural Center (they're distinctive), which is also in the park.

You must hike about 1.5 miles (one way, lots of hills -- an invigorating walk in cool weather) to get to the West Point Lighthouse. If you have small children or Ancient Mariners in your party you can stop in the visitors center for a parking permit that will allow you to drive right up to the lighthouse to park. I understand that they also have a shuttle bus during summer weekends. Call 206/386-4236 before you go. You will want to stop in the visitors center even if you do not need a permit or shuttle to pick up a trail map and advice on the best way to get to the lighthouse.

If you arrive and the visitors center is closed, head for the north paking lot. At the far end of the lot is a grass field, beyond which is a paved road. Walk to that road and follow it to the left. It will wind up and back around. Near the top of the grade there is a CROSS WALK sign. Turn right onto the Loop Trail at that point. Follow trail signs to the south beach (north is OK too, but may take longer -- the lighthouse is where the north and south beaches meet at West Point.) The hike takes about 1/2 hour if you walk briskly. Allow substantially more time if you have children along or if you are out of shape -- the hills take their toll!

Take photos of all sides of this lighthouse; it doesn't have a bad side. I also took some time exploring tidal pools on the beach while I was there. The park is beautiful, serene. Savor it.

I departed Seattle on I-5 at 2:16, northbound again to Exit 189 (Mukilteo). The sun was trying to peek through for a few minutes, then gave up. DO NOT get off the *first* Mukilteo exit (I think it was exit 183.) Exit 189 is much quicker. Follow the signs for the ferry, but stay out of the ferry lane. You can see Mukilteo Lighthouse on your way down the hill. Turn left just at the ferry dock to reach the lighthouse. I arrived at 2:45, 1174.6 miles.

I toured the Mukilteo Light. What a beautiful little light! The volunteer in the lantern room is retired USCG. He worked on a tender in the area. Had a great conversation with him. While at the top I took a photo of the reflector at the back of the Fresnel lens (look closely and you can see my reflection in it) and one of the lamp inside. This lamp is (to my surprise) only 150 watts, and about 2" tall. It is a halogen lamp very much like the one in my desk lamp at home. Despite its small size, you can see the light across the channel (3 miles wide) in broad daylight, an affirmation of the efficiency of the Fresnel lens.

There is a gift shop on the grounds, and they had a HL Mukilteo on display, and many other brands of Mukilteo as well, but no other HLs. I walked around to the beach to try to get a good shot of the light, but it was challenging. A 28mm or 35mm lens would have been really useful. Of course I only had my (usually) trusty 70-210mm zoom with me. Go to the beach anyway -- the fog horn array will astound you (if it doesn't go off that is. If it does go off it may kill you!) I did find one interesting composition for the lighthouse though. Go to the far side of the ferry dock and shoot through the ferry dock's steel structure so that it frames the lighthouse. It was the best view I could get from shore.

Make sure you get in line for this ferry early. I got in line immediately after the previous ferry departed. That will give you ample time to get upstairs and ready to take photos before the ferry shoves off. Head for the port stern. This, imo, is the best place to photograph Mukilteo from, and is best done within the first minute of the voyage.

The ferry ($4.50) departed at 4:00. I disembarked at 4:17 at Clinton on South Whidbey Island. It was still very cloudy, but a pleasant 60 degrees F. I followed Route 525 north and followed the signs to the Keystone - Port Townsend Ferry terminal. Drive past the terminal about 1/4 mile and turn left into Fort Casey State Park to view Admiralty Head Lighthouse. Follow the signs. From the grounds you can also see (barely) the Point Wilson Lighthouse across the inlet. Admiralty Head Lighthouse is now an interpretive center open to the public. I arrived just after closing time (anyone surprised?), which is 5:00. Best pictures are probably from the top of the concrete parapets that once housed the 10" disappearing carriage guns that were used to guard Admiralty Inlet around the turn of the century. Such guns can still be seen a few hundred yards away at Fort Casey's main embankment. That too is worth the stop.

I got in line for the Keystone - Port Townsend ferry ($6.25) at 5:41 for the 6:30 departure. Didn't want a repeat of last night! The ferry was running late. I boarded at 6:58. I just did make it aboard, too. Only 3-4 cars were able to get on after me! Whew! From the ferry's starboard you can see both Admiralty Head and Point Wilson Lighthouses in the distance (on opposite shores). Not real good for photos though. You'd need a 400+mm lens, and that would never work with the boat vibrating the way they do. Nice sight, though. And the sun was beginning to peek through the clouds now. Looks like a set-up for a great sunset!

I disembarked at 7:36. If you saw it from the ferry, you'll be tempted to turn right off the ferry to get to Point Wilson, but don't. Turn left and follow the signs for Fort Worden State Park. You will come to a fork in the road with no sign for the park. Bear right to stay on Cherry St. The park conference center entrance is at the bottom of Cherry St. Once inside the park, go to the large directory sign and turn right for the lighthouse. There are a couple of places on the way to take good photos from. I arrived at the lighthouse at 7:47, 1213.2 miles. From the road, walk around the left side of the USCG fence. There is a path there from which you will have a very good photo opportunity. I caught the light just as the sun was going down. It turned into a really spectacular sunset over the Straight of Juan de Fuca. I stayed to watch and photograph the sunset. I learned my lesson in Cape Henry in December: If clouds are moving either in or out late in the day, stick around for the show! I was amply rewarded.

I departed the Point Wilson Light at 8:10. To get back to Tacoma I followed SR20 West to SR19 South, to SR104 East, to SR3 South, to SR16 South, to I-5 North into Tacoma. Arrived 9:56 (1294.1 miles logged).

Phrase of the day: Glorious sunset!!!

More lighthouses tomorrow, but not sure if I'll get to post until later this week. Taking the redeye out of SeaTac on Tuesday. TTYL.

Exhaustedly yours,

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-Art

[This message has been edited by Art (edited 05-07-99).]

Art,you have now experienced one of the many Pacific Northwest phenomenon[if the sun is going to shine at all that day,it will be just before sunset-so you will forget how rainy the rest of the day was]Hope you enjoy more great lighthousing!

Day 7.

Well, it doesn't look like the weather is going to cooperate today. I cannot complain -- I've had fabulous weather here for more days than I deserve.

I got out of bed this morning at 6:30, showered, ate breakfast and departed for the New Dungeness lighthouse. My plan was to hike the 5.5 miles (one way) of Dungeness Spit out to the lighthouse. You can't drive out to the light. It was a chilly 45 degrees and raining cats & dogs. I must be nuts, I thought to myself. I convinced myself (but not without a prolonged fight!) to abandon the plan. What is it they say about people who argue with themselves?

Instead I went into Bremerton to view the Turner Joy (a Sherman class destroyer that saw action in the Gulf of Tonkin in '64), and several other large Naval vessels. I looked for submarines too, Tim, but they were hiding.

As a write this, I'm looking out my 11th story window in downtown Tacoma and see some snow flurries mixed in with the rain. Doesn't look too promising for lighthousing for the remainder of the trip -- the only lights remaining require long hikes and/or long drives. I don't mind either, but I really don't want to take a long drive only to chicken out of a long hike beacause of the weather. I must be getting tired. This wouldn't have stopped me last week! Anyway, I need to save some lighthouses for next time .

Thanks for traveling along. I'll post pictures when I get back. See ya'll back in Tennessee!

Word of the day: nimbo-stratus

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-Art

[This message has been edited by Art (edited 04-19-99).]

Great Lighthousing Art, thanks for sharing your adventure. I hope some day I can print this out and follow in your footsteps. I, of course, will ask Saint John for better weather conditions!lol

Art, thanks for the great log of your trip. You visited many lighthouses that we have seen in past trips and added a few we hadn't. Looking forward to our next trip that way.

Kathy

Art, I've enjoyed reading your log as well. It makes me feel as though I've come along on the trip! If you see them all the first time, there's no reason to go back!

I'd like to thank all of the travel advisors, well-wishers, and virtual companions who helped make this trip work out so well for me, particularly Myron (who spent many hours putting together e-mails full of detailed advice for me), Paul (who pointed me toward Myron), Jim (who sent some very useful info by mail) and all those of you who posted replies, advice and encouragement in this Forum. I really am moved by the outpouring of help. It really reinforces the notion of the Harbour Lights Family. I am proud to be a part of this group.

Here are a few links that I found helpful in putting together this trip. Hope that those who follow will find them so also:

Oregon State Parks:

http://www.prd.state.or.us/home.html

Oregon Lighthouses:

http://zuma.lib.utk.edu/lights/oregon.html

http://www.aracnet.com/~jkandik/oregon.shtml

Washington State Parks:

http://www.parks.wa.gov/

Washington Lighthouses:

http://www.aracnet.com/~jkandik/washing.shtml

Anyone learning of other links that could be helpful please continue to post them here. Although my trip is over, others will surely follow. Let's make it as easy on those folks as possible.

Thanks again for making "our" trip a success!

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-Art

Really enjoyed the travelogue, sounds like you had a good visit. You've inspired me to visit more of the NW lights, I'm keeping the hike to Dungeness on my list of things to do. Don't blame you for opting out in the face of bad weather! Come back to the NW the last of July or first of August, reliably the best weather of the year (but no promises!)

Hi Art,

All I can say is WOW! You are awesome!!! How do you drive, watch the odometer, check the map, read street signs, take pictures, record the time, and pen it all so beautifully in words, all at the same time. What an honor to think that I may have had a tiny part in helping to make your trip a success. The time I spent pales in comparison to your marvelous travel log and the joy that I have received from traveling with you via "virtual reality" through your very descriptive journaling. I especially enjoyed your experience with the "sunken grades." I hope to be able to use the information you have given about the Washington area in the next year or so on one of our trips, when we go home to Oregon for visits. I really hurt with you when you talked about losing some of your choice pictures. Thank you for sharing your trip with all of us, the good times as well as the disappointments. As usual, I have received far more than I have given. We are all anxiously waiting to see some of your pictures.

I had to smile when Saint John wrote about his experience at Umpqua Drug. We had a similar experience when we visited there a couple of years ago.

Thank you for your time and willingness to share each little detail and thank you Saint Paul for giving me the opportunity to help.

Myron

[This message has been edited by Myron Snyder (edited 04-20-99).]

Art-
Thanks for taking the time to include us in your trip. In reading over your journal it sure sounded as if you were moving pretty fast to get all that accomplished.

I had thought about making a similar trip but thought it might be too much (from the East Coast). Now I know it can be done!

Thanks again for sharing.

Rich

Just saving a few "oldy but goody" threads from the eventual wrecking ball.