There have been a number of posts about the relative value of Harbour Lights limited editions.
No one wants to pay more than they have to for an item. The sources for retired lighthouses can be:
1. A retail dealer who still has the item at retail (check the "Retired@Retail" service before buying ANY retired item.)
2. A retail dealer who has purchased the item from a collector and who re-sells it at an appreciated price. (A few retail dealers mark up retired items from their inventory.)
3. A Secondary Dealer - who owns inventory they are selling.
4. A Secondary Broker - who is brokering the items that individual collectors have placed with them for resale.
5. Individual collectors who are either selling 'extras' they own or are liquiding part or all of their personal collection.
Those who are selling a particular lighthouse are free to ASK whatever they want for it. Sometimes a price may have a reason to be 'higher' than it 'should be'. For example, the piece may have a very low serial number or have a unique coloration or be an especially fine example of the piece when others are 'rougher' in appearance.
Some pieces may be offered for 'lower' prices because it is missing a box. (Never devalue a piece because it is missing it's certificate. HL will provide you with a replacement certificate free.
Brokers are most likely to publish prices and you are likely to find a range of prices for any given piece. Keep in mind the list a broker offers is going to change frequently as they sell items and add items to their list. One list that is available on line is that of the Collectible Exchange.
http://www.colexch.com/ (Select listings, then choose Harbour Lights to see the most recent list.) This is not a recommendation of Collectible Exchange over any other broker/dealer.
You might see, for example, the available for the limited edition Hilton head:
1 HL-HILTON HEAD, SC #136 438/1, 467/1, 469/2, 474/1, 500/1
This means that one is being offered at $438, 1 is available at $467, 2 are offered at $469, 1 is at $474 and 1 is offered at $500. A total of 6 are available from $438 to $500. These prices already reflect the commission that Collectibles Exchange adds to the amount these sellers want to receive for their Hilton Heads.
As a rule of thumb, I discount the top and bottom prices and use the middle range as realistic. (The cheapest one is likely to have been sold; the most expensive one could be priced by someone with unrealistic expectations -- or who wants to 'push up the value' of the piece by listing his/hers at an inflated price.)
I also use the NUMBER of items available as an indicator of its scarcity. However, gain, this is not always firm. For example, there's only one Cape Henry listed -- but this one can be widely found at retail.
In the case of the Collectible Exchange, individuals can list their items for sale at no charge, may also be trying to sell it themselves and may change their minds about selling when the Exchange calls to say they have a buyer for that piece. Thus the buyer is not SURE of being able to buy any or all of these items. In addition, the pieces offered for sale through the Collectibles Exchange may ALSO be listed through another broker.
Again, remember these are ASKING prices from sellers.
To find out what SELLERS got for the pieces, you need to refer to a service that collects information from Secondary Dealers and publishes that information. The only such service of which I am aware of is the Collectors Information Bureau (CIB). Recognized Secondary Dealers contribute data on sales during the preceeding six months and CIB publishes the range of sales prices 2 x a year.
www.collectorsinfo.com . You won't find the prices at the web site. You'll need to purchase their book. It's a good investment if you're wondering what the value of your collection is or if you want to know how much a piece you want to buy is selling for.
A caveat here, too. The information in the CIB guide is 1 month to 7 months old. Some pieces appreciate rapidly, others do not.
Prices on the secondary market are determined by buyers who decide that something is worth a set price to them.
To be a secondary market 'dealer', one only needs to call themselves that. I noticed at the Reunion that many, many postings on the bulletin board there were made under names that I had not seen before as sellers. That is not to say that they are less reliable, simply that all it takes to be a 'dealer' is to call youself one. Caveat Emptor. Ask for references, check the references and understand in advance the return policy or satisfaction guarantee (if offered) by the seller. Purchasing with a credit card (not a debit card) gives you some recourse.
Others comments are welcome. We're NOT looking for the NAMES of secondary dealers with which you have been happy or displeased here - just information that will be helpful to new collectors making their first purchases on the secondary market.
Postings with the names of specific sources may be deleted or edited.