I'm sure many of us enjoy taking pictures of lighthouses. I'm also positive that there are some people that are better at it than others. (Take a bow, Paul). Maybe this subject should have it's own thread rather than being a thread under the "tip title." I'll leave that up to the Web Master.

What I propose is that we share different tips on taking LH pictures. I'm sure many of you have information to share that could be very helpful to others. Whether is types of film, ASA's, F-stops, shutter speeds, tripod use, filters, wide angle lens vs telephoto lens, time of day or night, fill-in flash, angles, or photo composition let us hear it.

I would like to start it off with a small problem I ran into when I arrived at a LH after the sun had gone down. I had traveled a considerable distance by car and also ran another eighth mile down a private road hoping to get a shot of the light (Watch Hill). It was basically dark at that time and I didn't have my tripod with me. I looked around and found a closed dumpster that looked fairly clean on the top. I quickly positioned my camera on the fixed object and took a series of pictures at 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, and 1 full second (using the 2 second timer on the shutter). I was pleasantly surprised to find my 400 ASA film carried me and was able to gather enough light at those very slow shutter speeds to give me a decent shot even in the dark.

Next !

Good idea, Bob. Just back from safari myself, I sure would have liked to brush up on techniques before I set out. Maybe our Exhaulted Webmaster can publish conditions (as those you mention above) under which different website images were shot. I realize that's not probable ex post facto, but maybe it can be done with future images published if the photographer is kind enough to (a) record or remember those conditions and (b) share them with us. That way we can all see the results of each technique.

-Art

Well - take a look up there at the top of the page where the "Collector Forums" banner flashes.

That's Point Arena. We spent too much time at the nearby retailer "Rollerville Junction" (nice people). The gates to the grounds of the lighthouse closed at 5 (missed it by 10 minutes. On the way from the dealer to the lighthouse, we drove down a narrow road about 3 miles as I recall "Lighthouse Road". I had noticed this spot on the way in. I shot a few other shots through the fence, then quickly doubled back down the road to the view point. I did have a tripod with me (usually don't).

This was shot originally on Ektachrome. I don't recall the ASA but it wasn't fast.

I bracketed through f stops and shutter speeds and was pleased with this one that almost looks moonlit.

For each shot, I waited for the light to flash and tried to capture that during the time exposure.

The lighthouse is rather small in that little image and I cropped it some at the top and bottom to fit the banner size.

The animation was done in Photoshop 5.0. To do that flash, I first cropped and size the photo with the pinpoint of light at the lighthouse. Then I saved that picture as "image0.gif". Next I used photoshop's "Lens Flare" tool, positioning the flare spot where the lighthouse flash was. I used one of the control tools for the lens flare so it was relatively strong. I saved that as "image1.gif". Then using the "fade" tool, I made it somewhat fainter and saved that as "image2.gif", Using the gif animation tool that is part of the Image Composer 1.5 program that is part of MS Frontpage98, I arranged the images in order of 0-1-2-1-0 and set the time delay for each image to operate the flash.

John

1) I prefer shooting pictures in the early morning or late afternoon/evening, since the light is usually warmer/softer (depends how you look at it).
2) The colors of the scene are better in pictures that are not backlit (although there are some beautiful pictures of silhouetted lighthouses with the lenses shining). Try to keep the light source behind you.
3) Since there is usually water to be found near lighthouses I look for puddles, pools &ponds in which I can get a reflection of the lighthouse (or part of it). Sometimes to do this you have to get down low. When I shot the picture of Nubble Light (which can be seen in the Photo Gallery), this year during the JC Reunion tours, I was actually on my stomach on top of the rocky coast. The water that reflected part of the lighthouse was actually a very small puddle that was left when the tide went out.
4) It's nice to capture some sense of motion or action (frozen in time). I usually use 200 ASA for all of my pictures which works well. Both of my Nubble pictures in the Photo Gallery have some form of action frozen, one with the gull flying overhead and the other with the wave crashing over the rocks. Patience (sometimes you need as much as Job) and Luck (it helps if you're Irish) are key ingredients to getting these kinds of pictures.
5) Have something in the foreground that leads your eye into the picture. A walkway (ie. the shot I took of Fire Island Light) or a shoreline (ie. my shot of New Haven Harbor Light) that are in the Photo Gallery.
6) Try not to center everything both horizontally and vertcally, this usually makes for an uninteresting picture.
7) Clouds are nice and can be used to balance a picture. A sky without clouds is like a song without a tune.
8) Try not to include things like telephone wires and poles which cut a picture into pieces.
9) Frame the subject with surrounding trees and flowers. You'll notice in the Photo Gallery that Paul uses this technique very well. This gives the viewer a feeling of the plants indigenous to the location as well as balancing the picture.
10) Most of all, relax, have fun and remember that you won't be showing off most of the pictures that you take (you're not alone).

I hope these tips help you to get the most enjoyment out of your film.

Ron

Ron's post above has some excellent concrete suggestions.

To see his Gallery, you can choose "Lighthouses" from the frames menu, then click on "Gallery Lobby", find Ron's photos and click on either one.

Ron hints at one of the best tips -- be very selective in which picture you show friends. Don't even keep pictures that are bad. Pick a few and people will think EVERY picture you take is Great!

Bracketing (taking several pictures with different shutter or f-stop settings) will sometimes yield a surprisingly good picture.

Compose using the 'rule of thirds'. Mentally divide the image you see in the viewfinder in thirds horizontally and vertical. Put the main subject of interest on one of the intersecting 'lines'.

Another idea - turn your camera around and picture the people looking at the lighthouse. You might be able to capture that sense of wonder we feel when looking.

Great tips, guys! I hope even more will appear on this thread. I'm surprised we haven't heard from Mr. Brady...

OK Bob!

Here's the first one.

Use your feet not your lens when you can. What I mean is walk around and study all sides of the lighthouse before shooting your pictures. I know you can't do this with a lot of them because of private property, time or a natural hazard is forcing you to shoot only from a certain angle. But, whenever possible, move around and study the surroundings as well as the lighthouse itself. The old adage of a person having a "good side" to them for picture is very true and it applies also to lighthouses (this is true of other things also but this is about lighthouses). The best angle isn't always obvious and people's tastes differ. So, vary your shots. After you find your favorite angle, check for distracting things in the foreground but pay close attention to the background as well. Try to keep the setting uncluttered. When you get back the prints, you might like the picture but suddenly you notice something distracting that would be hidden from view by moving a bit one way or another.

A great picture has what they call "stopping power". Let us say we have 40 pictures pinned to the wall in 8 rows of five each, and we are judging them for the best one. Usually the picture that wins has stopping power; it stops you and makes you look at it. It can be one of many things that stops you, perhaps the lighting or the angle. But when studied closer, the picture might have distractions and or objects that cause the person to move on. I try to eliminate what I don't want in a shot almost more than what I do want in the shot.

The first step to shooting great lighthouse pictures is to take some steps to observe as much as you can. I have found it also makes my memories of my visit to that lighthouse much clearer for a long time by moving around and really being part of the location. I can almost see the keeper at times when I let myself get into the moment, involved and active in the shooting

Second rambling thought to following in a later post.
Clue: fill the frame!

Not the second rambling!

I just wanted to add that I agree totally with all that John and Ron said in their posts. I especially agree with Ron since he is MUCH older TODAY and at 50 years old he probably needs our support. Happy Birthday, Ron! I know, I know, John, this belongs in the other forum, 'Much To Do About Nothing,' but it is appropriate here because "experience is the best teacher" when it comes to shooting pictures. Welcome to the club, Ron!

Paul (54 1/12 years old)

I am not that great a photographer, and maybe that is why I need to do this, but one of the biggest things I have found is the need to take a lot of photographs of your subject.

More than once I have had my film developed only to say, "I wish I had a few more shots" from a certain angle or prespective. Film is relatively cheap, so take a lot of photos, even if it may seem like too many. You never know what may ruin one of the shots you think will be your crown jewel. If you have more than one from that angle or location, then chances are you will be safe.

Also while you are taking all of these photographs, take some from unusual perspectives. Can't get that seagull off the ventilator ball? Take the photo with him in the shot.

This also goes back to what Paul says in his post about a photo that has "stopping power". The more you have to choose from, the more chances to find the one with stopping power.

-Todd

Thanks, John, Paul, Ron, and Todd for those great tips! I hope you will add more as you think of them.

I've taken a lot of pictures in my time but just recently my interest has been "rekindled" to try to do it better. Now that I qualify as a "HLA" I find myself drawn to the coast in search of photo opportunities involving LHs. In the past I took pictures mainly from my boat or dinghy at the islands. Now I find myself in frigid temperatures on ice-coated breakwaters juggling two cameras.

Which is part of the point of my next tip, carry two cameras and always shoot at least two separate rolls of film of each light. I'm not questioning anyone's photographic abilities, but cameras can fail, batteries can go dead (especially in cold weather), and film processors can lose films.

Who's next?

Thanks for all the great tips, but I'm still a point, shoot, and pray photographer. Leave the rest to you professionals and talented amatuers.

Now where did I leave that throw-away camera

The Ancient Mariner

Bob, you left out the one where the photographer breaks the film by overwinding. I know first hand. Lost much of the roll when changing film, even though I made an emergency darkroom out of my coat to extract the broken roll. Some light entered and spoiled some pretty good shots. Luckily, the roll broke between lighthouses, and I had the same lighthouses on other rolls. Your advice is sound. Thanks.

-Art

Speaking of throwaway camera's Fred I have thousands invested in my camera gear, but I always carry the $10 cardboard throwaway panorama in my pocket. The following two images are at my Gallery page at HarbourLights.com.



Using good equipment always helps, but you should use every tool that is available to capture the moment the best you can. These aren't bad for a cardboard and plastic camera.

Paul

Nice "pics" Paul! There's a pair that will beat three of a kind!

Here is another question.

What brand of film are the experts using ?

Does anyone have a preference of one brand over another ? I have been using Kodak gold film 200 or 400 speed, I have tried the Kodak goldmax 800 speed but didn't care for it.

I'm not sure what the "experts" are using Mark but this ameteur uses Kodak Gold 200.

Ron

Here's a tip any one can use on pictures of any kind, lighthouses or not. A few years back I bought a fire proof lockbox and after I get my pictures back I mark the envelope of negatives (not with the negatives in it) to store the negatives in case of (god forbid) a fire. I also leave the keys to the lock box hanging on the handle in case of a burglary (so the burgler can see that there's nothing of value to him) and won't take the box to open later.
I also have a larger fire proof 2 drawer file cabinet for priceless home movies (videos) of the kids.

The one I have is a Sentry brand, I think it was under $30. and it is about 2/3 of a cubic foot.



[This message has been edited by Mark Wagner (edited 01-11-99).]

Brand of film:

Usually Kodak 200 Gold for prints. Ektachrome 200 for slides. I used to shoot slides exclusively for lighthouses, print film for family pictures.

Here's the benefit of slides: only YOU determine the exposure. You want to close down 2 stops, you'll see it in the slide.

But when you shoot print film, the machine (and POSSIBLY the operator) will decide what your print should look like. Most are set to give an 'average' value. If you stopped down 2 f/stops, the machine will try to make your picture look normal. You use a polarizing filter? Better tell the lab, otherwise they may think the sky is too dark and lighten the whole picture to make the sky look like what THEY think it should look like.

Of course, you can always have them REDO the prints that are too dark, too light, not blue enough etc.

Today, however, the end product may be a scanned photo for the Internet. Slide scanners are expensive - $800 or so last time I looked. Flatbed scanners that can do prints are available for $100-$250. And with a program like Photoshop, you can manipulate the scanned print.

And digital cameras offer a much cheaper alternative (at least after the initial hit for the camera), without film costs or processing costs. And they have the added advantage of immediate feedback.

Now with once-in-a-lifetime photos, I'd shoot one slide film. But if I want to shoot a picture for the web site, I'll use a digital camera.

John

When choosing film, I normally use Kodak Gold 100 or 200. I too have tried Kodak Max film, but like Mark,I didn't really care for it.

I also agree wholeheartedly with Mark on the use of a fireproof lockbox. I have seen so many times the distructive power of not just the fire itself, but the smoke and heat generated as well. I would further suggest, if possible, storing the lockbox on the floor. The heat is much less at floor level during a fire, giving you that much more protection from damage. Most fireproof boxes protect well from heat, but there is still a chance for damage. So, for your fire safety tip of the day: Stay low and go!

-Todd

Have any of you used "star filters" and a long exposure on LHs at night? What were the results?

Inquiring minds from the East Coast want to know!

Do any of you use a polarizing filter all the time? How about a "1A"? It seems I end up with a lot of white sky photos on partly cloudy days when the sky is just slight overcast with patches of blue. Sometimes I think it's the fault of the guy pushing the buttons at the development machine.

Yes, almost always have a polarizing filter on in daytime. One trick to know in which direction it will have the most impact (making the sky darker blue) is to point your forefinger at the sun - the arc scribed across the sky by your thumb is the region.

I have one tip to offer.
If you don't develop your own pictures, make
certain the processor you take your film to sets the
colors per each frame instead of per roll of film.
There's no substitute for great color.

Debbie

For me a good circular polarizer is an essential component when hunting lights. Lets you dial in definition to clouds and muffle glare on the water.

I've also come to enjoy using a wide angle lens. Nice thing about lighthouses is they often let you get real close to 'em. :-)

Rgds,
__
/im

Just making this an active thread.

Saint WackoPaul '
Keep the Flame

Thanks to all you photographers for this thread. I printed it out
and hope to apply your suggestions and ideas on our next sightseeing trip. Hopefully I will have some pictures to scan in and maybe have become part of a gallery in the future. Keep your fingers crossed and hope that my scanner works okay.

I have found that using 100 speed film allows me to enlarge pics without them being so grainy. A tripod is best if you can use one with 100 speed film. With the right f stop even my twilight pics and low light pics come out fine with 100 speed film.

Looking forward to seeing those pictures!