I've had 2 inquiries this week on building glass cases for the Anchor Bays without cases so I'm resurfacing this again.
For those of you that expressed an interest in the glass case that I made for the 175' Keeper Class WLB George Cobb(check out 175' WLB Glass Case Post under this Forum) and wanted some dimensions/instructions on how to make it, here they are. I've compiled dimensions for all the Anchor Bays that have been produced since the glass cases were eliminated and have listed those dimensions and the Anchor Bays that they relate to below. I would highly recommend that if at all possible you use 1/8" thick glass over the more common 3/32" glass that is readily available at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. Go to a glass specialty store and you will find the glass prices almost comparable but you will have a choice of glass thickness and a more experienced person cutting the glass as your exact dimensions are extremely critical. The dimensions are as follows:
USCG Icebreaker Mackinaw
2 each 6" H x 5 1/2" W (end pieces)
1 each 6" H x 12 1/4" W (front piece)
1 each 6" H x 12 1/4" W (mirrored back piece)
1 each 5 1/2" H x 12 1/4" L (top piece
327' USCGC Barque Eagle
2 each 7 5/8" H x 5 15/16" W (end pieces)
1 each 7 5/8" H x 9 9/16" W (front piece)
1 each 7 5/8" H x 9 9/16" W (mirrored back piece
1 each 5 15/16" W x 9 9/16" L (top piece)
175' Keeper Class George Cobb
2 each 5 1/2" H x 5 15/16" W (end pieces)
1 each 5 1/2" H x 9 9/16" W (front piece)
1 each 5 1/2" H x 9 9/16" W (mirrored back piece)
1 each 5 15/16" W x 9 9/16" L (top piece)
2 each 5 1/2" H x 5 9/16" W (end pieces)
1 each 5 1/2" H x 9" W (front piece)
1 each 5 1/2" H x 9" W (mirrored back piece)
1 each 5 9/16" W x 9" L (top piece)
Rigid Hull Inflatable
2 each 3 7/8" H x 4 3/4" W (end pieces)
1 each 3 7/8" H x 8 15/16" W (front piece)
1 each 3 7/8" H x 8 15/16" W (mirrored back piece)
1 each 4 3/4" W x 8 15/16" L (top piece
In addition to the glass pieces,you will need the following materials to complete the glass case:
1. 1 roll masking tape(any size)
2. 1 tube fast setting bonding material(Hysol 151, Super Bond, etc.)
3. 1 tube Black RTV(rubberized sealing compound for sealing glass, bathtubs, etc.)
4. 1 Xacto Knife with flat blade(any blade will do but flat blade works the best)
5. 1 Wooden base shaped and stained as you desire (The dimensions above are taken using a HL wooden base from the Chesapeake for all pieces except the Rigid Hull Inflatable and Mackinaw. The dimensions for the Rigid Hull Inflatable are taken from the Tugboat Toledo base). The dimensions for the Mackinaw will be whatever type of wooden base that you desire(inletted for the glass case to fit into or flat so the glass case may sit flush on the base).
6. 2 syringes with 1/16" metal or plastic tips from a hobby store(optional)
7. Cue tips
8. Rubbing alcohol
Start with a "squared off" level surface(cutting board, plywood, heavy cardboard) that can be easily moved as you will be moving it around as you are bonding the pieces of glass together. Cut 20 pieces of masking tape into 1/4" x 1" strips. These strips will be used to hold the 2 ends and the front and back pieces of glass together while bonding the glass pieces together(you may add more strips of masking tape if you desire). Connect an end piece of glass and the front piece of glass together so only the inside edges of the glass come together using 3 strips of masking tape. This will leave an "L" shaped opening on the outside edge of the glass pieces that will allow for the bonding to be place in. Repeat this procedure for attaching the other end piece of glass to the front piece. Finally, attach the mirrored back side(mirror faces into the case)to the end pieces of glass. You will now have a retangular glass case(minus the top piece). Ensure that the unbonded glass case is perfectly square by measuring from the edge of the board to the corner where the edge piece of glass meets the front piece of glass and from the edge of the board to the corner where the edge piece of glass meets the mirrored back piece. The distance is not important but the 2 distances must be equal. Put a couple of pieces of masking tape(size not important) holding the edge piece of glass to the board. Repeat this procedure by measuring form the board's front edge to each corner of the front piece of glass and tape the front piece of glass to the board after the measurements are equal. The glass sides should be perfectly suare after doing this and you may now tape the other end piece and mirrored piece to the board. This will allow you to move the board around without moving the glass case that is on top of the board. You are now ready to start bonding.
Pre-mix(if a 2-parter) or use straight from tube(if no mixing required) and apply small beads of the fast cure bonding material to the "L" shaped outside void where the glass pieces came together. Six or seven small beads placed on all four corners should be sufficient(make sure the beads touch both pieces of glass and also make sure the beads do not extend beyond the outside edges of the glass as they will not be able to be covered when the black rubberized RTV is applied). Follow the recommended cure time for the fast set bonding material(it varies from 1/2 hour to 18 hours depending on brand). When the cure is completed, the glass case should be solid enough to remove the 12 masking tape strips holding the sides together.
The next step is to apply the black rubberized RTV bonding material. Squeeze out some of the black rubberized bonding material into the syringe or on a flat surface and using the syringe or toothpick fill the entire void on each corner of the glass case to the edges of the glass pieces. Do this to all 4 edges. Taking your finger, smooth the black bonding by running your finger from top to bottom so that no bonding material extends past the glass edges. Any excess that goes on the glass surface will be removed after curing is done. Allow this bonding material to cure until the rubber cannot be marked or indented. Using the Xacto knife remove any excess bonding on the glass surfaces. If there is a haze left on the glass surfaces, use a cue tip and rubbing alcohol to remove this glaze.
The next step is attaching the top piece of glass to the glass case. Lay the glass top on the case and position so all sides of the glass top are equally spaced around the top of the glass case. attach the top to each side, front and back using 8 strips of masking tape. Bonding the top glass to the case using 6-7 beads on each side and 12-15 beads on the front and back. Again, be careful to use small beads of bonding material that attach to both glass surfaces and do not extend past the glass edges. Allow to cure as before. Remove the 8 strips of masking tape after bonding is cured.
The final step is to apply the black rubberized RTV bonding material as you did on the side pieces. Smooth the surfaces and let cure. Trim off excess bonding material using the Xacto knife and remove the haze using alcohol and cue tips. Remove the masking tape holding the glass sides to the wooden board and clean the glass as required.
If you followed these instructions you will have a glass case exactly like the Anchor Bays came with at the beginning. If you have questions on any of the directions, materials or questions in general, please contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org or call Florida (352) 622-3239. I do go to bed early because I have to get up at 4 AM so please no calls past 8 PM EST. Between 5 PM and 8 PM is the best time during the week and anytime on the weekends